What Do Home Inspectors Check? A Buyer's Guide to What's Covered

What inspectors examine

Home inspectors follow standards set by organizations like ASHI and InterNACHI. The scope covers what's visible and accessible on the day of inspection.

Roof. Inspectors assess the roof's condition from the roof itself (weather permitting) or from the ground. They look at shingles, flashing, vents, chimneys, and gutters. They check the attic for signs of leaks, ventilation issues, and insulation.

Foundation and structure. The inspector examines visible foundation walls, floor framing, and any accessible basement or crawl space. They're looking for cracks, water damage, settling, and signs of movement.

Exterior. Siding, trim, windows, doors, grading around the foundation, and drainage. They check for rot, water management problems, and damage.

Electrical. The main panel, visible wiring, outlets, switches, and grounding. Inspectors test a sample of outlets and check whether GFCI protection is present near water sources. They don't open walls or trace every wire.

Plumbing. Water heater, main shut-off, visible supply and drain pipes, fixtures, and toilets. They run water to check flow and drainage. They don't pressure-test pipes or disassemble anything.

HVAC. Furnace, air conditioner, heat pump, thermostat, and visible ductwork. They verify the systems run and produce heat or cooling. They don't test efficiency or clean the systems.

Insulation and ventilation. Visible insulation in the attic and crawl space, bathroom venting, and attic ventilation.

Interior. Walls, ceilings, floors, doors, stairs, railings, windows, and fireplaces. They look for damage, safety issues, and signs of moisture.

What inspectors don't cover

This list matters as much as what they do check.

Behind walls and under floors. Inspectors work with what's visible. Problems hidden inside wall cavities — old wiring, pipe leaks, pest damage — won't show up unless there are visible clues.

Mold testing. If an inspector sees something that looks like mold, they'll note it. Laboratory testing and formal mold assessment require a specialist.

Sewer line. A standard inspection doesn't include a camera scope of the main sewer lateral. In older neighborhoods or homes with mature trees, a sewer scope is worth adding separately. Sewer problems can cost thousands to fix and aren't visible from inside the house.

Pest or termite inspection. Handled by a separate licensed pest inspector in most regions.

Radon, lead paint, asbestos. Each requires specialized testing that goes beyond a visual inspection.

Code compliance. Inspectors note safety issues and outdated conditions, but they don't certify code compliance. An older home may have systems that were fine when installed but don't meet current standards.

Pools, wells, septic systems. Unless specifically added to the inspection scope.

If any of these concerns you, ask your agent about scheduling the relevant specialist inspection alongside the general inspection. More on which specialists to call and when.

How long it takes

Most inspections run two to four hours. The size and age of the home matter. A smaller, newer home goes faster. A larger or older home with a crawl space, detached structures, or complex systems takes longer. Weather can delay roof access.

Should you attend?

Yes, if you can make it work. Attending gives you a chance to see findings in person, ask questions in the moment, and hear the inspector's perspective before the formal report. Most inspectors welcome buyers at the walkthrough — usually towards the end of the inspection, after they've had time to work.

If you can't attend, ask your agent to be there and take notes. Some inspectors offer photo or video walkthroughs as part of their report.

What you'll get afterward

The inspector sends a written report, usually within 24 hours. Formats vary — some use apps like Spectora or HomeGauge with photos, severity ratings, and organized sections. Others deliver a PDF or formatted document. Severity language varies too: what one inspector calls "major" another might call "repair recommended."

Read the full report once to understand the home's overall condition, then focus on findings that affect safety, structure, and your budget. How to read your inspection report walks through this in detail.

What inspectors can't predict

An inspection is a snapshot. The inspector reports what they observed on one day, in the conditions that existed that day. They can't predict when the furnace will fail, whether the roof will develop a leak next winter, or what's happening inside pipes.

Some findings — like an aging water heater or a roof nearing end of life — give you useful context for planning ahead. Others, like a system that's working fine today, don't guarantee anything about tomorrow. The goal isn't certainty. It's informed decision-making.

What to do with the information

Once you have the report, the next steps flow from what the inspector found.

If findings are routine — maintenance items, cosmetic wear, minor issues — you can proceed with confidence. Factor any near-term expenses into your budget.

If findings raise questions — aging systems, unusual conditions, recommendations for further evaluation — decide whether to bring in a specialist before your contingency deadline.

If findings are significant — structural concerns, active water problems, major system failures — you'll want to prioritize what matters, build your negotiation around those items, and decide what to ask the seller for.

The inspection is the clearest look you'll get at the home's condition before you own it. Use it to make a decision you feel good about, not to find reasons to panic.

If your report landed and you're staring at dozens of findings, InspectionTriage can help you sort through them. Upload your PDF and get a prioritized Decision Packet with findings organized by system, cost context for each item, and a timeline tied to your contingency deadline. See what’s worth negotiating — free.